Valentino dă foc Romei cu un spectacol haute couture antologic

În Orașul Etern a început totul pentru bărbatul pe care toți cei din casă îl numesc respectuos domnul Valentino. În 1959, anul în care Valentino Garavani (acum în vârstă de 90 de ani) și-a fondat casa de modă, devenind din anii 1960 una dintre cele mai mari nume ale modei italiene. Dar tot aici, la Roma, Pierpaolo Piccioli, directorul artistic al lui Valentino , își amintește de marile momente ale modei pe care le-a trăit acolo, pe atunci tânăr student, pe celebra și grandioasa Scalinata, trepte monumentale care se ridică spre Trinita dei Monti, Piața Spaniei. 

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Diversitatea frumuseții

Viziunea lui? Dă voce tuturor diversităților, așa cum făcuse deja în timpul ultimului său spectacol haute couture la Paris. Defilează femei (și bărbați) al căror fizic nu mai trebuie să îndeplinească aceleași canoane de perfecțiune ca înainte. Vârstă, culoare, silueta, sex, totul este deschis... Alături de supermodele tinere și bătrâne – Mariacarla Boscono, Violette Sanchez, Kristen McMenamy, Liya Kebede, printre altele – designerul a mai apelat la o distribuție de stradă. „Vreau să spun frumusețea diversității, insistă el. În trecut, de exemplu, puteai vedea unul sau două modele de culoare în parade pentru o notă exotică. Având aproape 40 de modele negre pe podiumul Valentino astăzi, vreau să transmit un mesaj politic, să fac un apel la contracararea xenofobiei. Pentru că moda nu poate fi apolitică. Noi, designerii, avem o anumită responsabilitate”.

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Principala inspirație pentru această colecție haute couture numită „The Beginning”, „este domnul Valentino însuși și mai presus de toate”, subliniază el totuși. Dacă fiecare colecție haute couture este pentru Pierpaolo Piccioli „un început etern”, aceasta a plecat din conversații cu fondatorul labelului. „Este o reflecție asupra a ceea ce a construit istoria casei cu un nou aspect, o nouă perspectivă”, explică el. De aici și celebrul Valentino roșu ale cărui rochii figurează proeminent pe moodboard-ul designerului. Va exista și această bucurie de a trăi și această lejeritate specifică identității marelui couturier pe care Pierpaolo Piccioli a vrut să-l transcrie și să-l proiecteze în lumea contemporană.

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Colecția include numeroase ținute care au incendiat, literalmente, Treptele Spaniole, cu flori, paiete și culori care se ciocnesc armonios (de la verde mentă la roz fluorescent, trecând prin toate nuanțele de roșu, portocaliu, albastru). Un alt element vedetă al colecției: penele, sunt foarte multe care conferă ținutelor o grație aerisită.